Spätburgunder sighting!

A couple of months ago I was intrigued after reading the New York Times article about Spätburgunder, Germany's Pinot Noir.  I went on the hunt and called several wine merchants but sadly, none had any on hand.  I heard about a small shop along San Francisco's Embarcadero and thought I'd give them a try.  I came across the "No Trespassing" sign at Pier 19 and walked in to find Dee Vine Wines, a jewel in a lonely warehouse.  They not only had a variety of Spätburgunder available but they were having a tasting - SCORE!

Spätburgunder (SHPAYT-bur-GUHN-der) comes from the literal translation late (spät) harvest burgundy and is Germany's best known red varietal.  The wines surprised me as my palate is use to the fruitier flavors typical of California and Oregon Pinot Noirs.  The German varietal is complex, very little fruit on the nose and on the palate, and is light bodied with low levels of tannin.  These wines tend to favor their burgundy brethren more than the Pinot Noir.  It's a bit of an acquired taste - "it's different" was the phrase folks uttered most frequently; however, I found myself liking it more and more with each sip.  I got there very late but managed to scribble a few notes on the following:

• The tasting started with a 2006 Solter Brut Spätburgunder Sekt Rosé ($20) - citrusy but too sweet
• 2007 König Assmannshaüser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken ($30) - tart, very light
• 2006 König Assmannshaüser Höllenberg FRBG Spätlese trocken ($44) - spicy and dry
• 2002 Kühn Rotwein Spätburgunder trocken ($30) - Biodynamic. Brown in color, fennel on the nose, lively and refreshing.
• 2007 Prinz Hendelberg Spätburgunder trocken ($29) - light color but fuller bodied than the rest, smells like the forest
• 2003 Kesseler “Max” Spätburgunder QbA trocken ($55) - color is a dark rose but not deep, smoky nose, wood on the palate, and drier than the rest.
• The tasting ended with a 1983 Staatsweingut Assmannshaüser Höllenberg Spätburgunder WSS ($65) - very sweet, heavy, and reminiscent of a Moscato. 

Spätburgunder wines are fairly expensive for the weekday drinker, most are $30 and up, but make for an interesting weekend or special occasion compare and contrast tasting.  If you're in San Francisco, I highly recommend taking a gander at Dee Vine's selection, particularly if you're in the market for German wines and most definitely if you're in the market for Rieslings, many bottles come in half size and are reasonably priced.  Bonus: the proprietors are friendly, very knowledgeable, and welcoming.

Auf Wiedersehen und Zum Wohl!
(Goodbye and to your health!)

(see similar article published on Examiner.com)